Suitable Enclosures: X-Pen or Free Roam Options
Domestic rabbits should be housed indoors to protect them from temperature extremes, predators, and fly strikes. Ideally, the temperature should be between 60-70°F.
Rabbits housed in X-Pen enclosures must be given at least three hours of supervised free-roam time daily to support their physical and mental well-being.
A proper enclosure should be at least 12 square feet.
A domestic rabbit's enclosure or free-roam area flooring is at a minimum of 1/4 inch thick. This can be achieved by stacking Sherpa, blanket fleece, quilt fabrics, or by using specially made small-animal blankets.
Both options will require you to bunny-proof your home. Rabbits get a lot of their enrichment from chewing. In your home, this can look like chewing cords, shoes, baseboards, and furniture. This behavior can be managed and prevented with proper enrichment and bunny-proofing.
Avoid using hutches, cages, or enclosures with solid bottoms. Although these are often marketed for rabbits, they are unsuitable for domestic companion rabbits and do not provide the space, comfort, or enrichment they need and deserve to thrive.
Age Appropriate Diet & Treats
Rabbits should have unlimited unsoiled hay 24/7
Before buying hay, pellets, or treats, ensure that they are made up of age-appropriate hay.
Rabbits under 7 months of age should be given Alfalfa hay, which is high in protein, to support proper growth and development.
Rabbits 7 months of age and up should be given Timothy hay or an alternative such as Orchard Grass. Avoid hays such as alfalfa and oat, which are too high in protein for adult rabbits and can cause obesity and potentially blockages.
1/4 Cup of pellets per day
2 Cups of greens per 2 lbs. per day
1-2 Tbsp of treats per day
Nutrition plays a major role in the health and longevity of any animal. Nitrates, and not calcium or oxalates as previously thought, have been linked to urine sludge, bladder stone formation, and blockages. Nitrate content in vegetables varies by region! Leafy greens can be offered often, but fruits and vegetables should be offered sparingly or as treats. Proper calcium levels are important for bone formation and muscle control. Moderation and variety are the keys to offering a complete, well-balanced diet. Information provided courtesy of Utah’s Mountain West Veterinary Exotics Department. Happy salad making!
Proper Handling
Rabbits must always be handled with care—be sure to support their hips and back. Without proper support, a sudden kick can result in severe spinal injuries.
Never pick up a rabbit by its ears, scruff, or limbs, as this can cause severe spinal injuries and distress.
Daily Health Monitoring
Click here for Utah Rabbit Vets & Wellness
GI Stasis - What it is, what it isn't, and what to look out for:
GI stasis is a symptom, not a diagnosis.
Gastrointestinal Stasis is a serious condition in which the rabbit's digestive system slows or stops, causing a buildup of food, gas, and fluids in the stomach and intestines, leading to pain and potentially life-threatening complications. Blockages are usually secondary to another underlying issue.
It's crucial to recognize the signs early, as prompt treatment significantly increases the chances of survival.
Do not attempt to medicate your rabbit without a current veterinarian's prescription.
Find out the WHY for your rabbit. Sometimes the answer to the symptoms isn't as scary, and you may just need to change up their diet. Click here for a dietary guide.
Basic Grooming
The frequency of brushing a rabbit depends on the length of their fur and whether they are currently molting—a natural process where rabbits shed old fur to make way for a new coat, which occurs a few times a year. For instance, rabbits with long fur, such as angoras, or those going through a molt, should be brushed daily to prevent matting, discomfort, and the ingestion of loose fur. In contrast, short-haired rabbits that are not molting typically only need brushing a few times a week.
Rabbits are naturally clean, self-grooming animals and generally do not need baths. Bathing can be harmful—it may strip their fur of essential natural oils that keep their coat healthy, and the experience can be extremely stressful, potentially leading to shock or injury.
A rabbit's nails should be checked and trimmed regularly, about every 4 to 7 weeks. Take care not to cut into the quick, the pink blood vessel inside the nail, as this can cause pain and bleeding.
A rabbit's teeth grow continuously, so they need constant access to safe items to chew on to wear them down naturally. Regular dental monitoring is essential. Smaller breeds, such as Netherland Dwarfs and Holland Lops, are prone to dental issues and overgrowth.
Introducing Prey Animals to a Dog/Cat
Recognize if your dog/cat has a prey drive. Does your dog/cat try to catch mice? Does your dog lunge at birds during walks? These are normal behaviors; however may indicate the dog/cat has a prey drive and may become dangerous for the prey animal.
Three-day decompression period:
Give your new animal three days to decompress in their new home before immediately beginning introductions with the resident animal(s). This allows the new animal time to acclimate and the other animals to warm up to the new resident without rushing interactions. This is especially important when introducing a prey animal to give them time to decompress.
Scent swapping:
Allow each animal to smell the other animal’s belongings. You can simply rub a blanket on each animal for the other to smell or bring items to each of their environments. This will help them become familiar with each other before starting any greetings or interactions.
Introductions through a barrier:
After you have allowed your new animal some time to decompress in their own space, you can start allowing the animals closer access to each other by placing them on either side of a closed door so that they can smell each other directly. If both animals can sniff each other through a closed door without displaying signs that they are stressed or uncomfortable, you can allow them to see each other through a baby gate or x-pen. Avoid forcing any interactions.
Reward disinterested, neutral, and respectful behavior with high-value treats.
Let the prey animal be the solicitor (at least at first).
Look out for stress-indicating body language
Be prepared to separate if interactions escalate.
Supervision and Expectations:
For the safety of both animals, every interaction should be supervised for the first few weeks to months. This will allow both animals time to decompress and acclimate to each other and avoid any unwanted and potentially unsafe interactions. Introductions between new animals can be a slow process, but it is worth it to create a positive relationship between them. Keep in mind that the length of time the introduction process takes may vary depending on each animal’s history with the other species.
Signs to end an interaction:
Chasing, lunging, grunting/growling/barking/hissing, scratching, rough play, or biting.